V-scale and YDS conversion chart

From I am mcgrof's smirking revenge

If you're starting to rock climb chances are you are starting at an indoor rock climbing gym. Indoor rock climbing gyms have two types of rock climbing available, bouldering and sport climbingBouldering is a bit different than some other forms of rock climbing and it has its own grades, the V-scale, for defining the difficulty of the climb. In the United States for sport climbing and other forms of rock climbing we use the Yosemite Decimal System. As I started to rock climb I got confused by these different rating systems and their relationships.

At one of my visits to Planet Granite in SF, the indoor gym I typically go to, I finally saw a conversion chart. I'm sharing that with you all and blogging about this given that I am unable to find anything like this online. Its very curious to me that a V2 is similar to what a 5.11b or 5.11c... At least for me in terms of difficulty, the chart seems to be spot on. V2 is my current bouldering top level and 5.11b is the highest I've been able to climb so far as well. Bouldering has a different feel to it though and for me if you do not boulder often enough -- you loose it.


Anonymous said…
Anonymous said…
Comparing climbing grades is a serious topic :-) A V4 boulder problem is typically 6b or harder which equals a 5.10c YDS but it is really hard to compare because being able to perform V4 complexity moves doesn't mean you have the endurance to master a full pitch of such problems..
Fin said…
Thomas Graf, notice that the page you listed has no V to YDS conversion, only bouldering scales to bouldering scales, and rope scales to rope scales. :P

Thanks for posting this, was looking for some such scale, yours was one of the first hits. Exactly what I wanted. Wikipedia, my first resource, failed me here.

Bouldering in the gym my whole life, rarely go outside. I often forget what difficulty I climb in the YDS scale.
JPL said…
@Thomas Graf, V4 is not 10c. I can comfortably lead 10c, but can only occasionally solve the V4's I find. You've made the mistake of thinking that 6B French is the same as 6B Font and thus the same as 5.10c YDS. Fontainebleau and French are not interchangeable.
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